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I’ve been getting more calls on polished and/or stained concrete for homes. I’ve posted about polished concrete in the past and if you’ve read that post you’ll know I like polished concrete. I even have some in my own home and it works very well. But like any good thing you can go too far with it.

I for one, don’t believe that concrete is a great floor finish in the kitchen or the bathroom in a residence. Keep in mind that mild acids can stain and damage concrete finishes. Although the densifier used in polished concrete offers good protection for most situations your kitchen and bathroom environments present some special challenges. Lemon juice, vinegar are simple examples in the kitchen and if you have young children, especially young boys…., well you can see what might happen in the bathroom.

I think concrete floors in a home are great for your entrance, games room and so forth, but I would really reccomend that if you are considering using concrete throughout your home take a good long look at the pros and cons. Don’t take a good thing too far.

I cannot tell a lie, I like 3cm over 2cm. That’s not to say you can’t get a good job with 2cm stone but on a personal note, where possible, I prefer to use 3cm stone.

There are a number of very good reasons to look at 3cm stone as superior to 2cm. For one thing it’s more stable to work with. Ask most fabricators and they’ll agree. Working on the thicker 3cm stone is easier and safer. The slabs are less prone to cracking and edge curling. Also when you are using the thin 2cm stone plywood is requried as a sub-base to the counter. It is a rare occurence that you would use plywood with a 3cm installation. No plywood means no need to double up the nosing to hide the plywood edge. This means no seam on a visible edge. Finally and maybe just as importantly I just like the look of the thicker stone, especially if you are using an under-mount sink. To me the beefier look of 3cm stone adds something to the over-all look of the counter.

Now you can do very nice work with 2cm stone, in fact most vanities are done with this format. However, if you going to use 2cm stone with a 4cm edge ask to look at samples of finished edges. You want the seem to be as invisible as possible or pick an edge that uses the seem in the design of the edge, for example a stepped nosing. If possible choose a stone that is solid with no or very few fissures. Nero Assolutto, Uba Tuba or Tropic Brown are good examples.

So if you can think about 3cm. I like it and I think you’ll like it too.

Ok so, you’ve chosen your stone, put your money down and confirmed everything. The stone or quartz counter that you’ve dreamed about is going to be templated next week, then manufactured and installed a couple of weeks later. Hooray, all the hard work is done. Now you can lay back, show up when it’s all done cut the check and enjoy your new purchase.

Not so fast chum. You, that same person who will be paying for this piece of stone that will transform your kitchen or bathroom needs to be present when the templater arrives and when the counters are installed.

A lot of happens when the templates are done. Always confirm with the templater where the seams are going. Seams are a necessary item but you should know where they are going and if they can be moved you should have some input. You may have already discussed this in the showroom when you chose the stone but an on-site review is important. Also double check and confirm the sink type, it’s location, the taps and associated tapholes. Can the spout spin freely without touching an overhang or a window sill? Is there enough room in the cabinets for the sink you’ve chosen.? Are the tap holes going to be so large that there will be a problem with the sink install?

Very seldom do drawings and the “real” world line up perfectly. Things may have changed when the cabinets were installed. The walls maybe slightly off and the cabinet installer had to add a filler or maybe the back of the stone has to be “scribed” . Maybe the floors aren’t level and the cabinet heights need tobe adjusted. Maybe the cabinet installer placed the island cabinets a couple of inches over from where it was shown on the drawing and now that wonderful overhang on the island will interfere with the fridge door. Any of these items or a number of others can result in a change or alteration to the counters and you need to confirm the changes.

Finally, when the counters are installed go through the same thing again. Be there! Don’t assume anything because if something has changed you will be aware of it and you can make a decision on the spot. Even ff everything does go as planned you will be there to sign off on the final product. The last thing you or the fabricator wants is a problem so help out and be on site.

Can you actually build a shower using ceramic or stone that doesn’t leak?

It’s actually pretty simple but for some reason a lot of people now believe that unless you install a one piece shower stall you are guaranteed of having leaks eventually. We actually built a cut-away shower for a home show a few years ago because we had so many questions concerning how to properly build a shower stall and that display unit helped considerably.

There is a lot of information out there detailing how to properly build a shower stall. The TTMAC (Tile Terrazzo and Marble Association of Canada) and the TCA (Tile Council of America) both have very detailed specifications on shower installations. So do many of the manufacturers of accessory products for the ceramic and stone industry (ie Mapei, Schluter, Proma…etc.). All these sources of information will show you what needs to be done, with heavy emphasis on the use of water-proof membrane systems. You should be able to find some great details and informative pictures so this post won’t be covering those details.

What I want to stress is testing the water-proofing before you complete the shower.

That’s right, test the system before you finish tiling or installing whatever finish you’ve chosen. After the water-proofing has been installed and has cured plug the drain and fill the shower with water. Then let the water sit for at least 48 hours. Don’t rush the test, wait the the two whole days and make it official. Unless of course it starts leaking immediately, like into the next room or downstairs in the ceiling below the shower floor.

If after two days everything looks good then pull the plug and carefully inspect the shower floors and walls. If you are certain there were no leaks then complete the shower stall. If there is a leak, address it and then test the water tightness of the shower unit again. Don’t assume anything. Remember that old saying, if you assume something you risk making an Ass out of yoU and Me. Test, don’t just trust and this is equally important if you hired a contractor. Test, don’t trust. Anyone can slip up and it’s much better to find the leak before you finish the job then after.

Have fun.

Can I use marble for my kitchen counters?

I get asked this question a fair bit so although I have talked before about the different characteristics of marble I think we should talk specifically about marble in the kitchen.

First, a simple question. If you were going to a toga party would you wear silk, fine cotton or permanent press?

Let’s face it, silk and cotton are beautiful fabrics but they do come with a few drawbacks. If the Greeks and Romans could have worn permanent press fabrics would they taken over the market? Today most of us would probably pick the permanent press cloth but no one would argue the feel and look of silk or fine cotton.

So the simple answer to the marble question is……..yes……..why not.

However, like silk or fine cotton you need to be properly informed of what kind of a product you’re getting. You need to know about the properties of the specific marble you are looking at and understand what can happen to the marble in a kitchen environment. There are pluses and minuses but you should make an informed decision.

Ask yourself, is the look and feel you want to achieve worth the drawbacks? And let’s be honest here, there are several major drawbacks that I can think that I would tell you about if you walked into our showroom and said that you were considering marble as your counter-top material.

1. Marbles will stain.

2. Mild acids will etch the surface.

3. Marble surfaces will scratch.

Please note, I used the word will and not might.

On the other hand however, pastry chefs, bakers and candy makers have been using white marble counters for years. They obviously work extremely well for rolling out dough, fudge and probably dozens of other things in the kitchen that I don’t even know about.

Can you tell I’m not a chef, baker or candy maker?

Marble also has a totally different look and feel than granite. Some designers want that old world charm and character of a well used marble counter. Let’s remember that the ancient Greeks and Romans who could afford it used marble exclusively and thousands of years later everyone still loves it.

Next question. Can you stop the staining thing, etching thing or scratching thing with lots and lots of sealer?

This time the simple answer is…..no…..not really.

Sealers are very important but those problems I mentioned have more to do with the chemical composition of marble and not what kind or how much sealer you use. Look back at my post “Natural Stone and Your Counter”. However, if you want marble in your kitchen there are a couple of things you can do to help maintain the appearance of the stone.

One simple thing is use a honed marble and not polished. In this way when you spill white wine, lemon juice or some other mildly acidic liquid on the stone you won’t notice the etching as much. Also scratches are much less visible when you use a honed stone. Another item to consider is using mineral oil as a sealer. Most people will tell you just to seal the stone with a good impregnator however I would disagree. Get a sample and try. We do the same thing with Soapstone and yes this will darken the marble to some extent but it’s an excellent sealer, simple to reapply and totally non-toxic. Finaly, clean-up spills quickly, especially fruit juice and wine.

So, if you simply love a certain marble and you think you want to use it in the kitchen get a couple of samples of the stone and play around with them. Try sealer on one sample. Try the honing thing and the mineral oil thing. Spill stuff on the samples, drag pots across them, scratch them, clean them, reseal them, etc., etc., etc. Then take a long hard look at the results. If you’re fine with the outcome go for it and consider throwing a toga part to celebrate.

I hope that helps.

When economic times get tough one of the first sectors to get hit is residential construction. No big news there, but can you save because of this ? Good question!

Labour Costs – Savings can be found here for sure but as I said in an earlier blog regarding contractors (The Good, The Bad and The Ugly) you have to be careful. The drop in residential construction has unleashed a large number of contractors into the market. Prices for labour are dropping and you should be able to negotiate but remember to research the contractor you are thinking to hire. People can’t work below cost but most contractors will cut their profit-line to maintain cash flow and keep employees working so negotiate.

Material Costs – Obviously this is the one place you can easily save some money. Right now most manufacturers, importers and retailers are working hard to keep costs down and sell off inventories. That should translate into saving for consumers. Research the material you want to purchase. Learn as much as you can about the product then look for inventory reduction sales and auctions. You’ll have to know what are the best products and what is a good price because the pressure is on to sell. This is where the internet and search engines are your friend. Look for importers or manufacturers that are willing to sell direct to consumers. Many have regular auctions or discount centres where they sell discontinued lines of their products at incredible savings.

Tool Costs – This might not be the first thing on your mind but if you are a DIY person now is a good time to invest in some new tools. Prices for tools are dropping for several reasons. One is the higher Canadian dollar. The vast majority of tools are not made in Canada and when our dollar is up the cost for these tools drops. Secondly, when construction sales drop contractors and trade people won’t be buying as many tools so inventories are up. Finally some contractors will go out of business or simply close shop which means the used tool market should be brimming with good deals. Check out flea markets, garage sales and tool rental shops. That’s right rental shops. If they aren’t renting the equipment they’ll be selling it off and usually at greatly reduced prices.

Good luck searching for deals. They’re out there just keep your eyes peeled and don’t jump at the first bargain.

First things first, nothing in life is free!

Let’s say this again, out loud this time…

NOTHING IN LIFE IS FREE !

Ok, do you feel better? I know I do. Remember that movie with the line..”I’m as mad as hell and I”m not going to take it anymore…” . Well if I hear one more sales rep expousing the notion that their certain granite or engineered quartz counters are “maintenance free” I’m going to walk over to that person and yell in their ear…nothing in life is free!

Maintenance: (noun) The act of maintaining, care or upkeep.

I live in a world of “hard” finishes. Stone, ceramic tile, terrazzo and polished concrete. All of these products reduce the amount of maintenance that you need to do to keep your home or building looking good. All of these products will last a long, long time but none of these products are “maintenance free”. This singular reality my friends also applies to granite and quartz countertops. I know some sales people will take keys and try to show you that you can’t scratch their product or they’ll pour red wine and ink on top of their sample and then, drum-roll please……………….wipe it clean with a damp cloth. Oh by the way my product has a 10 year warranty, oh ya well my product has a 15 year warranty. Look honey, it’s maintenance free and it’s warrantied. Oh joy, oh bliss now we can waltz through a field of flowers believing all is well in the world.

Sorry. I hate to burst your bubble but let’s say it once more. this time with feeling…

NOTHING IN LIFE IS FREE !

I love granite counters and I’m beginning to love engineered quartz as well. Yes some granites are harder than others and yes some colours of granite and engineered quartz are easier to stain than others but all granites and all engineered stone can be damaged and all require some level of maintenance. However, I truly believe these are the most beautiful products to use in you kitchens and baths even though you do have to care for them.

First read my very first blog on sealing counters, stone and ceramic. Then continue reading on.

Maintenance really means keeping your counters clean.

Cleaning – If you spill stuff on your counters clean-up with a damp cloth as soon as you can. If the stone has been sealed during its manufacture and/or installation it will have a level of protection. Ask about this before you buy the product. If you’re not sure what happened ask your fabricator. If the counters weren’t sealed the purchase a high quality impregnator/sealer and apply as directed. Once properly sealed natural stone counters should be cleaned with a neutral ph cleaner (ph 7). Anything higher (basic) or lower (acidic) could damage the product and at the very least leach out the sealers that have been applied to your counter. Quartz counters do not require sealing but they still need to be cleaned. Remember, neutral ph.

Re-Sealing – Talk to your fabricator about this. Granites & marbles should be re-sealed occasionally. An easy test it to pour some water on the counter. If the stone darkens within a few minutes then the stone needs to be re-sealed. Some better stone cleaners actually have sealer in their formulation and if you use these products you may never have to re-seal.

At the end of it all granite and engineered quartz are exceptional products that with a little care and cleaning will add beauty and elegance to your home for a long, long time.

It’s not Shakespeare but I’m sure even Hamlet had concerns about his home improvement projects.

If you are the classic, self-motivated, serious Do It Your Selver this post might be a non-starter. However, if you are thinking about a Do It Yourself home project regarding ceramic tile or stone tile you may want to read on. Let’s face it no one wants their project to end as a tragedy.

I’ve always felt that anyone approaching a DIY type project should try to maintain a feeling of adventure. You need to believe that each step along the way will bring the satisfaction of learning something new and not one of grief. Again for those of you whose second career is home renovation this might not apply but for the rest of us mere mortals, every time we step into our garages and slip on those safety glasses we are entering a land of intrigue and mystery. A land where sentinels like Mike Holmes and Carter Oosterhouse stand as the gate keepers and we are the outsiders.

In the world of DIY somethings are easier than others. I’d like to think that installing ceramic tile can be one of those “easier”projects and there is a lot of technical info out to help you. However here are three points that I think are paramount.

1. Plan your work well.

2. Use the right tools.

3. Exercise patience.

Believe me there is a lot more to installing ceramic tile but if you can wrap your head around those three items you might be a candidate for home-improvement tile setter of the week award.

Planning to do a ceramic floor tile project can be the biggest part of the job. Planning encompasses all the decisions around what type and/or size of tile you need, what accessory products are required to properly install the tile and finally how you will layout the tile to simplify the installation and use the space to your advantage.

Ok. You’re about to buy the tile, thin-set, grout and maybe a sub-floor material. You’ve researched and feel confident in your choice. You’ve read all the instructional material labelled “Ceramic Tile Installation Made Easy”. Now if you want to minimize your frustation during the installation look into buying or renting the correct tools.

1. Electric mixing drill and wand. You are not baking a cake. This is not flour you’ll be mixing. You will need to mix cement-based materials and believe me you want to make this as painless as possible. The electric mixing drill is the way to go. It’s faster, simpler and does a better job than hand mixing.

2. Properly sized grooved trowel. I like to use square grooved trowels. The groove size for tiles less than 12″x12″ should be 1/4″ x 1/4″. This should increase to 1/4″ x 3/8″ if you are installing a tile 12″x12″ or slightly larger. If the tile is larger than 16″ x 16″ back-buttering is a good idea. Note, back-buttering has nothing to do with your breakfast toast before you start laying tile. If you are unsure what this means ask your tile supplier. If they don’t know what back-buttering tile means consider buying your tile elsewhere. I’m just kidding. Google the phrase.

3. Professional grouting trowel and sponge. Yes a professional quality grouting trowel and a good, thick sponge. Not some thin, black sponged, plastic pretend grout trowel and a little green or yellow sponge that you use to wash the dishes. The quality of your grouting will make or break your installation.

4. A decent wet saw. Yes I printed the word decent in block letters. The water pump must work before someone can call it a wet saw.The diamond blade must be of good quality or you will break tile and frustration will rule. The guides must be straight and the saw must have a stand so you can work safely and in a comfortable position. Unless you can get a saw that as a minimum fits the description above walk away.

5. Other miscellaneous tools: straight-edge, chalk line, tape-measure, pencil and a carpenter’s square.

Patience is a major requirement for all DIY projects and installing ceramic floor tile is no different. As we say in the construction world, “Rome wasn’t built in a day, just look at the Coliseum, still no windows”. But seriously now folks, take your time. The old adage, measure twice and cut once was never more useful. Patience also means that you start simple, straight walls and a rectangular room. Stay away from showers or wet areas for the first few times. Let’s not complicate issues with waterproof membranes and sloped floors. A small entrance, two piece powder room, even a small kitchen is an easier project than a shower enclosure. Remember, simple is good, complicated is bad.

I’m sure notice that I haven’t talked about how to install the ceramic tile. Like I mentioned earlier there are plenty of books and videos that will give you all the technical instruction that you’ll need. However, if you can’t get past the material above don’t do it. Save yourself the aggravation and hire a good installer. The tile you purchase is expensive enough and doing the job twice is no good for anyone.

Remember what happened to Hamlet, poor planning, some bad advice and …”Alas poor Yorick…”